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  #1  
Old 07-09-2008, 09:55 PM
cooa99 cooa99 is offline
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Advice on Subwoofer install for X5

Hi, I am about to build a sub box to fit into the rear compartment of the E53 (under the fuse box). my questions are:-
1) Should the box be ported or sealed
2) should the box (after beign carpeted on the outside) be a tight fit or should there be enough space to add paddings (& dynamat) to dampen vibrations
3) what subs should i consider for tight base response?
4) my x5 does not have an amp, If I tap into rear speaker wires to feed a subwoofer amp with Line out converter, are there going to be issues?
5) can I get away with a 6/7 channel amp to power the subwoofer and then my door speakers(in the future)?

Thanks
cooa99
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2008, 10:40 PM
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CharlieHustleX5 CharlieHustleX5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooa99
Hi, I am about to build a sub box to fit into the rear compartment of the E53 (under the fuse box). my questions are:-
1) Should the box be ported or sealed
2) should the box (after beign carpeted on the outside) be a tight fit or should there be enough space to add paddings (& dynamat) to dampen vibrations
3) what subs should i consider for tight base response?
4) my x5 does not have an amp, If I tap into rear speaker wires to feed a subwoofer amp with Line out converter, are there going to be issues?
5) can I get away with a 6/7 channel amp to power the subwoofer and then my door speakers(in the future)?

Thanks
cooa99

1-the box should be sealed, since it would be almost impossible to have a correctly configured ported box work properly in such a small space.

2-I would dynamat the area prior to building and installing your box to get accurate measurements of the space you have to work with. If you already built the box, then there's little reason to worry because dynamat is pretty thin stuff so there should be no problem.

3-JL w-0, JL w-3, kicker L5 or L7 10"....so many more to list..

4-There will be no issues at all as long as you tap the proper wires.

5-I personally would get a seperate amp for my sub and mids/highs. 6-7 channel amps are usually huge which makes mounting and placement difficult. Also, in the event the amp were to go out on you, all your sound would be gone. At least if you have seperate amps, its easier to diagnose the culprit and remedy the problem faster.
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:44 PM
cooa99 cooa99 is offline
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thanks very much


cooa99
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  #4  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:50 PM
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Wagner Wagner is offline
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Just curious, why build one when you can get a direct Infinity plug n play system from www.bavauto.com?

Bavarian Autosport / Infinity Basslink "Plug 'n' Play" Subwoofer Kit
Only for Cars with DSP / Premium Sound System
Part # : INF SWK T $ 449.95
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:21 PM
cooa99 cooa99 is offline
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Are you talking about the infinity BasslinkII?. There does not seem to be much talk of it on the forum, so i dont know how effective it is.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:00 PM
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Wagner Wagner is offline
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Had it, its perfect for the X. Michelle has one.
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2008, 08:16 PM
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I did what you are talking about doing - built a box with an 8" sub for the area where the fuse panel is, Dynamatted everything - wasn't satisfied with the sound. Sub kept bottoming out. Took out the box, installed a 10" sub in the panel for that area (no box) - actually sounded better than the box, but still not happy. Finally I just bought this box for $20 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-642 (couldn't build it for that price!!), installed an Alpine 10" sub hooked up to an Alpine VR amp and I am now very very happy!! This box has a small footprint, so it does not take up much room in the rear hatch area. Plus I left enough speaker wire to where I can place it anywhere in the rear area from the front seats back. And it hits HARD!!!

Oh, and I have about $150 invested in the whole thing!!!
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