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1 - You will take your wires at the radio module in the rear of the car. This is assuming you have one in the drivers side rear trunk compartment where the tail light access is found.
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OK, so I guess I can also take the wires near the radio module (under spare wheel) as well?. To feed the Amp do I just tap into rear (left + right)?. Also Assuming I need to Add amp to power the 4 doors, do I just cut all 4 (module to speaker) wires and pass then via a 4 channel Amp or is this a bad idea?. That 4 channel amp can then Power a mono amp to feed the momo Amp for the sub..
[quote]2 - Mono Amps are specifically made to produce sound at low frequencies, where bass is usually found. If this amp is dedicated to a sub, a Mono amplifier would be your best choice.[quote/]
roger on that
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3 - For your listening taste, a JL w3 would suit you nicely. I strongly recommend the w3 in either a 10 or 12 inch model. Great sound, doesn't require a huge enclosure, and picks up bass notes well on fast beat songs. Runs about $240 more or less, but worth every penny.
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Looking on the JL website, the W3/w6 10" & 12" subs requires a 1.1cu.ft & 2.8cu.ft respectively which is more than required for the minimum's of the 10"/12" Solo-barics. I was trying to keep sub box to decent minimum without sacrificing its effectiveness
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A kicker L7 is going to be too much for your taste. I run one right now, but I change out to a JL w6 from time to time when I'm messing around with different enclosures and setups on my 2 cars.
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what do you mean too much for my taste?. Is it too boomy or not that punchy enough? what about the L5
Ideally i dont want to go over 1cu.ft in enclosure size but still get punchy sound or is this just a dream?
Alpac shows a box(diff sub) in his boot which does not look more than 1cu.ft
http://www.x5world.com/49689-post2.html
regarding the 2/4 ohm models, is there a rule of thumb i should follow on this or do i just stick to 2ohm since thats more power ?
cheers
cooa99