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supersteve · #17 05-11-2008, 08:46 AM

OK lets think about this for a minute. Assuming it is the same cylinder the plug is getting oiled up in and not the same coil and/or plug. . .

Compression test was done and checks good. That says the rings, piston, cylinder wall, and head are all ok. You are not pumping or sucking oil into the cylinder during the time 2 cycles of the four that the valves are closed. Those being compression and combustion. That leaves the remaining two cycles of the four cycles.

I doubt your pulling in oil during the exhaust cycle from an exhaust valve stem. The flow, for the most part, is out, past the valve so this would not show on the plug; but, would show a puff in the exhaust.

That leaves the intake cycle.

Have you looked at the air/oil separator and all other vacum lines. If you are pulling/pumping oil into the intake manifold it will show in the plug and everywhere else. It will also leave a trail of oil in the intake manifold. If the stem seal has failed there will be little or no oil in the intake manifold. Again, the flow past the valve is going, for the most part, in one direction, from the intake past the valve into the cylinder.

I suggest you get some cans of Berryman's and clean the inside of the intake manifold and check all the vacum lines. Then try cleaning the plug and trying it again.

Changing the valve stem seals is not a fun project. If it is not done properly there is a grat potential for serious damage. An example is, a valve may drop into the cylinder resulting in having to pull the head. A lot less fun.

If you decide to do valve stem seals and have not done them before I suggest you have someone standing next to you that has.

To do them you'll need to put that cylinder on top dead center. I also suggest you fill the cylinder with string through the spark plug hole, leaving the end out of the cylinder so you can retreive it. This is to stop the valve from falling into the cylinder. You then have to remove the cam and the bucket (lifter) and dissassemble the valve. You'll need a valve spring compressor and a magnet to get the retainers off. After removing the valve springs you'll be able to get to the valve stem seals. Like the saying goes, "rinse and repete." There are a total of 32 valves. Keep in mind you'll have to rotate each cylinder to top dead center and fill with string to prevent the valves from dropping. This also means you'll have to retime the engine when your done

Word of caution......If at any time you can't find something (IE valve spring retainer) stop whatever your doing and find it. If it winds up in the cylinder or remains in the head your valve train will self destruct the very first time you start the engine. Same result if the retainer is not seated properly when retaining the springs. A way to check if the retainers are properly seated after assembly is to the tap the top of the valve with a rubber mallet. If the assembly stays together your good. If not, find the retainers and try again.

For you, I hope it is something simple like a clogged air/oil separator and it would actually make more sense. Good luck. If I can help from here, let me know.

SS